We had red mullet at Vraxos, a small beachside taverna at Kalamaki.

The owner told us proudly that the fish had been freshly caught in the nearby sea, and we negotiated a price for the fish of €25 for the two of us.

We ate it at sunset, looking over the languid sea at the Mani peninsula.

Add in a half liter of beer, similar volume of rosé wine, fresh tsatsiki and a large green salad with feta, plus a mountain of toasted bread with olive oil and french fries.

The whole bill came to €52, about double the price of the fish!

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