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We went on to the Nuu-chah-nulth trail further down the coast towards Ucluelet. The visitor centre resembles one of their long houses and had a good selection of audio-visual exhibits, so you can hear them speaking the Nuu-chah-nulth language which sounds amazing. It was a bit disappointing that the feasting centre next door wasn’t open, nor was the shop, but there were great views over the islands opposite the centre and the wind-swept massive beach with the tree-trunks and other detritus. After the museum, we did the first part of the trail, finding a totem pole in situ which was very exciting, and then a secluded bay where I went in for a very quick dip. The water wasn’t nearly as cold as I had thought it would be but it was also full of clinging seaweed, and with a strong cross-tow so I didn’t feel like staying more than a few seconds.

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