We stayed with friends in a huge, lovely house on the sea, looking out onto the Ferry terminal and the coal loading terminal nearby, and we spent a great time with them talking about travel and the state of the world.

Tsawwassen has a suburban feel but is named after the First Nation people who inhabited before it became a leafy, manicured residential punctuated by shopping malls and golf courses. The ferry is a short drive from the town centre, at the end of a long peninsular that runs past the coal wharves that are still in use.